Antique & Vintage Dress Gallery
#4352 - c. 1959 SYBIL CONNELLY, Ireland Brown Linen Couture Gown! I have to confess (sad, but true) that I didn't know Sybil Connelly until I got this dress. However, I have learned a heck of a lot about her in a short time! And I'm sure the smart collectors out there know just how exciting this is to find! As written: "Her pleated linen dresses from the 50s and 60s are harder to come by at auction houses than Dior". Sybil's list of clients was impressive. Film actresses including Merle Oberon, Rosalind Russell, Elizabeth Taylor, Julie Andrews, and many members of the Rockefeller, Mellon, and Dupont families, and indeed Jacqueline Kennedy was painted for her official White House portrait wearing one of the designers pleated linen dresses! Her gowns have been exhibited in museums. Note: a strapless pleated linen evening dress by Sybil Connolly sold for $300 in 1954!! That's when my parents bought their house for $16,000 and cars cost $2,000!! If you want to know more of Sybil Connelly, I've included all the information (just click on the gown photo). The ballgown is made of the finest handkerchief linen, over copper colored taffeta. The horizontal pleats were a specialty and generally took 5 weeks to create! Measures: 36" bust, 26/27" waist, 44" long from natural waist to hem. Near Mint condition! Will wear slightly off the shoulders.
SOLD - but on display in Museum Category for Research/Display
Info on Sybil Connelly below:
Fashion as Investment (Information below lifted from fashion writer Robert O Byrne)
The popularity of fashion and textiles continues to grow, fuelled by exhibitions such as Versace at the Victoria and Albert museum in London, and Sybil Connelly at the Hunt Museum. Sybil Connelly, who died at 77 in 1998, popularized Irish fabrics like tweed, poplin, lace and linen by softening their colors, their textures and their construction.
Today, Sybil Connelly pleated linen dresses from the 50s and 60s are harder to come by than Dior at auction houses.
Sybil Connelly was was a global celebrity - as famous as the people she dressed - Elizabeth Taylor, Merle Oberon, Helena Rubenstein, Julie Andrews, Rosalind Russell (for whom Sybil Connolly designed the costumes of a 1965 film called Mother Superior), and Jackie Kennedy. Jacqueline Kennedy was actually painted for her official White House portrait wearing one of the designers pleated linen dresses.
Jackie Kennedy Portrait
Connolly's success started with a red flannel petticoat, the much-lauded "Irish Washerwoman Look" so popular in NY in the 1950s. Pleated linen and easy elegance remains her indelible emblem. "You have to decide," she once said, "whether you want to create the beautiful or the merely fashionable."
Sybil Connolly made her public debut as a designer in 1952. And by the following year, her gown was featured on the cover of August 1953 Life magazine, with the title, Irish invade Fashion World. Her ballgowns were also photographed by Norman Parkinson for the July 1954 edition of Vogue.
In a Saturday Evening Post profile of the designer in November 1957, it was noted that three-quarters of her gross earnings (then estimated at $500,000 per annum) originated in the United States. By the end of the 50's she employed around one hundred women, half of them working from their own homes where they wove tweed or hand-crocheted lace. She wisely used the fabrics of her own country, in particular linen at its lightest. She used to say that she first discovered this featherweight weave in a Northern Irish factory where it had been manufactured many years earlier to be made into fine linen handkerchiefs for the monarchs of Europe, but that after the First World War there werent enough of them left around. Famously, she took this linen and had it closely pleated to produce lengths which might then be used for dresses and skirts. Nine yards of linen were needed to create one yard of finished material. The first piece made in this way to be shown in the United States, a white evening dress called First Love, using three hundred linen handkerchiefs and containing more than five thousand pleats caused a huge stir and helped to make her name among Americans. It would take five weeks to make a pleated linen dress. Exclusivity was one advantage of this long production process. In March 1955, she told the Los Angeles Examiner that her work was rarely copied because of the individual handwork that is done on them. The fabrics are all handmade in our cottage industries. She often gave her clothes Irish names and a strapless pleated linen evening dress by Sybil Connolly was shown in the New York Times in April 1954 selling for $300 and prices remained largely unchanged over the next few years.
The greatest merit of her pleated linen was that garments from which it was made were almost uncrushable. Harpers Bazaar noted in June 1958 that a Connolly pleated linen skirt will pack into a small duffel bag and emerge unscathed. Sybil Connollys pleated linen is as remarkable a contribution to fashion history as Mario Fortunys Delphos pleated silk dresses made at the beginning of the 20th century and like them will forever be associated with the name of one designer.
For those interested in
Sybil Connolly deserves to be remembered in Irish history for more than just her designs. She was the countrys first fashion designer to attract international attention, the first woman in Ireland to set up her own successful business selling overseas, and one of the first people to promote Irish products and skills in the global market. She was one of the most remarkable women in Ireland in the 20th century.